Revell 1:48 AH-64 Apache – Paint Scheme: Green W/ Minor Weathering and Damage

This kit was the most irritating model to put together. I had numerous issues with parts being warped, not fitting, or having terrible seams. I have tried my best to fix them, but it does not look great. As a result, this will be a short blog post because almost all of my effort was towards fixing issues with the kit.

Step Zero – Taking note of the instructions and the sprue:

The the instructions were surprisingly clear on what needed to be done, but the sprues were warped I sprayed the sprues with gray primer.

Step One – Assembling and Painting:

I ran into numerous issues with parts not fitting together properly and, when the did, there were usually really bad seams. I painted the base of the cockpit a dark green, the panels and the chair black, and dry brushed the panels with white. To practice controlling my hand shaking, I hand painted the cockpit frame. I airbrushed the rest of the helicopter that dark green. I hand painted the rotors black.

Step Two – Weathering and Final Thoughts:

By this point, I had spent 3-4 days and my back had been getting increasingly more painful as I worked on it. I used a black wash on the vents. I used a pin vice to make bullet ricochets like it had been ambushed on one side with  some small arms fire. I dry brushed some aluminum paint on the areas to make that effect more apparent. This most certainly isnt my best work, but I am proud of the cockpit frame, given that it is hand painted, and I decided to avoid buying Revell models in the future, unless they are the only ones who make a specific model.

 

Monogram 1:72 P-82G Twin Mustang – Paint Scheme: FQ-377 W/ Minor Weathering

This was a fairly easy and fairly quick kit to put together, though it does have a few fit issues. It comes with 2 variants, the P-82F and P-82G.

Step Zero – Taking note of the instructions and the sprue:

The the instructions were mostly clear on where everything went, but I wish that there were a few images depicting how certain things were supposed to go together , like the fuselage and cockpits. There were 2 different variants to chose from, the P-82F variant with that had a large radar nacelle and a P-82G that had a rocket rack. I opted to make the “G” variant, but only put on the drop tanks, not the rockets or bombs. I sprayed white primer on the parts while still on the sprue.

Step One – Assembling everything:

Everything fit into place nicely, but I could never get  the landing gear doors to have a strong enough connection, the plastic connection was just too thin.

Step Two – Painting:

I taped off the cockpit any overspray. A large portion of the the aluminum flakes and acryilc, about 1/4th of the bottle, had dried and basically thickened beyond use at the bottom of the bottle, but I thinned it with some airbrush thinner and. It came back, at least most of it, and after a quick stir it was fine in my airbrush. I sprayed the entire body first with the aluminum, then I taped off the parts that needed to be red. I forgot to tape off the part where the Boom ID String  goes, so I had to hand paint that part with some aluminum after I was done. I also hand painted the dark green section in front of the cockpit. I sprayed it with a gloss top coat then put on the decals. I then glued on the painted landing gears. After the decals had dried, I sealed them in with another gloss coat. I do need to pick up a paintable jar of flat top coat, because some parts, like the green panels, should be a flat color.

Step Three – Weathering and Final Thoughts:

I decided to only do minor weathering on this model. I used a thick mud wash for the wheels, a thin black wash for the exhaust and the grime, and a thin lighter brown wash for hydraulic fluid and to give some parts depth. I liked this model and overall there were no major issues when building it.

 

Revell 1:48 P-38J – Paint Scheme: Damaged Bare Aluminum

This is actually the first model kit I bought, but I put it off until I had done several models and I had more practice under my belt. This kit, unfortunately, has several issues.

Step Zero – Taking note of the instructions and the sprue:

The the instructions were very fairly clear and they had 3 different variants to chose from, the Night Fighter, The Fighter Bomber, and the “Standard” P-38 flown by Richard Bong. This is the largest build I have done, but it only has about a half dozen more pieces than the Churchill Tank. I sprayed everything with a grey primer.

Step One – Assembling the cockpit:

This was pretty easy to do. The instructions were clear on what needed to be done for everything to come together, however there were a couple alignment issues which became a problem later on while building. I painted the interior corrosion coating, then the electronics, then finally the pilot. The pilot took a fair bit of time for something you don’t really see at the end.

Step Two – Assembling the core wing and fuselage:

First I glued in the cockpit and the landing gear bay. Next I glued together the wing, but the plastic was somewhat warped, so I had to anchor several points with tape while I glued everything.

Step Three – Assembling the engines, the elevator, and weapons:

I first put together the two engine nacelles, but I kept the engine cowling and prop off so they would be easier to paint. I then assembled the weapons and painted them. The nacelles were somewhat warped, but nothing that could not be overcome.

Step Four – Painting:

I taped off the cockpit and the guns to prevent any overspray. . I initially tried to airbrush aluminum onto the gray primer, but the dark primer was too overpowering and I was not getting the color I was looking for. I opted to spray it again with white primer. However, I did not mix the primer enough and I ended up with a grainy texture on part of it, more on that later though. I decided because I could not get rid of that texture without losing all of the raised panel lines, which also proved to be a problem when painting. The raised lines prevented the tape from sticking correctly and I got overspray on some parts. I decided that I was going to use this model to practice hand painting, so I hand painted invasion stripes and the dark panels, with the aid of tape. A section of the right wing had really bad paint issues, so I opted to remove it and paint it dark like it was damaged. I opted for a similar paint scheme to Richard Bong’s P-38, but with invasion stripes. I also decided not to do decals, partly because of the paint issues, but also because I wanted to focus on practicing painting. The cockpit canopy was probably the hardest thing to put on because it didnt fit and the plastic was so thin that it could barely grab onto the cement OR the solvent.

Step Five – Weathering:

I noticed that most of the graininess was focused on the right wing, so I decided, in an attempt to help cover up the paint issues, to weather it like it had been shot in its right wing and the engine was blown. I started with a thin black wash for the general damage, I then dry brushed on some aluminum acrylic, then a thicker black wash for the heavier parts and crevices, then a brown medium viscosity wash to give it some depth.

Step Six – Final Thoughts:

This model has its share of problems, but I didn’t help with the paint issue. It is an alright P-38 kit, but there are better ones out there for sure. This kit had several fit and seam issues. I had fun doing the weathering and painting, but I would not make this kit again.

Sprukits Master Chief (Level 2) – Battle Worn Weathering

I saw this model kit several months ago and, being a longtime fan of the series, I knew I had to get it. I never got the chance until the holidays came around. I didn’t take any photos of the construction since it was all color plastic and didn’t involve any painting. If you want a review of the actual construction, here is a good article on it. I’m just going to go in depth about how I did the legs, since that is what I took the most pictures of, but I used all of the same techniques on the other pieces.

Step Zero – Taking note of the original colors:

The actual base colors of the plastic were very accurate to the game, so I decided not to paint it. I did, however, spray it with some lusterless clear-coat while still on the sprue since the plastic was fairly shiny.

Step One – Putting mud on the boots:

I mixed some Vallejo “Flat Farth” with Vallejo “Black” and thinned it with some water. I brushed it on the bottom of the boots, let them sit for about 10 seconds, then wiped off the excess.

Step Two – Applying the grime:

I mixed some Vallejo “Black” with a touch of Vallejo “Gunmetal” and thinned it with some water. I did each section of the leg one at a time. I brushed it on, let them sit for about 3 seconds, then wiped off the excess. I repeated this process about 3-5 times. After this, I reapplied the mud, but covered more of the feet.

Step Three – Dry-brushing the scratches:

I took some Testors “Silver” metallic acrylic and dry brushed over the legs. I may have done a bit too much, but I liked the look it gave it. After this, I reapplied the mud again.

Step Four – Repeating the grime and scratches on the rest:

Not much to say here, I repeated the grime weathering and the scratches dry-brushing on the rest of the model kit.

Step Five – Painting the guns:

I hand painted the guns and that took up a large chunk of the time getting the coloring right and all the little details, but I am satisfied with how they turned out. The lighter part of the assault rifle is Vallejo “Natural steel” darkened with some “Gunmetal”. The dark part is Gunmetal darkened with a little black. The Green is a Testors acrylic green that I forget the name of. The white is Testors Acrylic “White”. The Red on the pistol is Testors Acrylic “Gloss Red” and the silver is straight Testors Acrylic “Silver”.

Step Six – Final Thoughts:

I loved the way the model came together and it is still fairly posable. I do wish the pieces fit together a bit better, the ball joint that connects his torso and hips is particularly loose, but it isn’t that noticeable.

Bonus – Zvezda 1/100 Panzer IV Ausf.F2 I Painted and Weathered

I was a bit too heavy with the grime on the turret, but otherwise it was a nice tank to paint and build while I was waiting for my brother to finish his bi-plane.

JTech 3.8w Laser – X-Carve

This is meant to be a quick review of the JTech Laser Upgrade for the Inventables X-Carve, It will be updated as more progress is made.

Building the Addon

We bought the JTech 3.8w Laser upgrade in early August. We received it in a timely manner and everything was in good condition. We bought. The 3.8w Laser with 2.5amp Driver, the Laser Fan, 3 sheets of 24″x12″ shielding, the X-Carve Mounting Kit, and an extra pair of Goggles. All of the mounts, the Fan Mount, The Laser Mount, and the Driver Mount, were 3D printed, the driver mount was slightly bent, but that is probably due to the 3D printing and it did not interfere with the installation. We would have preferred if the mount was metal instead of plastic. Using a screwdriver and one person pushing, we were able to push the driver power cable through the X Drive Chain. To control the laser, we used the shielded wire we bought for the limit switches. The Z limit switch broke and we never used them anyways, so we don’t have to worry about wiring more stuff and pushing more wires through the Drag Chains aside from the power cables.

Calibrating

The only real part that we felt was lacking was a solid calibrating guide and photographs of examples for us to replicate and use as guides for what it is supposed to look like. It has been 2 months since we bought the laser and, while I have been unable to work on it for about a total of about a month on and off due to my health issues, we have not been able to get it fully calibrated. JTech support is very good and replies quickly. The Inventables Forums is also a good resource, especially for X-Carve Specific Support. We initially started using the Inventables GRBL and dithered images, but we eventually just decided to switch the firmwares between the JTech and the Inventables firmware when needed. We are slowly getting the laser calibrated, but it is a long process of trial & error and it is still not complete.

Update:9/9/17

We ended up selling the laser to a person who already had a laser and wanted a second one. We ended up buying a 60W BossLaser LS1416 CO2 Laser that we are very satisfied with. I will do a write up soon on that.

Disclaimers: I DID receive this at a discount in exchange for writing this review. This review is based on the equipment available for purchase on 08/03/16.

Dragon 1/72 Churchill Mk. III, Dieppe 1942 – Paint Scheme: Dieppe Muddied

The model kit I actually bought was the “MK. III Fitted for Wading” edition, but I had intended to build the “Dieppe 1942” edition model since they use the same sprues. I managed to find a semi-high quality scan of the “Dieppe” instructions, but the two instructions were almost identical, save an extra step or two. This is my first time putting in decals and my second time weathering, although my first time with the knowledge of proper techniques. Someone I met through Patch Gaming paints miniatures and he taught me some weathering techniques and tips.

Step Zero – Taking note of the instructions and the sprue:

The the instructions were very clear and mostly concise in what I needed to do. The sprue did have a few issues, but all the parts seemed to be fine. I noted some parts that would be an issue, mainly the headlights, antennae, and exhaust pipes. I ended knocking off 1 of the headlights, all of the antennae dozens of times, and the exhaust pipes 5-6 times.

Step One – Assembly:

This was pretty easy to do. The instructions were clear on what needed to be done for everything to come together, however I did adjust the order of several things. I painted under the track guard before I glued it on to ensure it had some color of I could not reach it once it was glued on. I attached the rear track “wells”, but I held off on attaching the tracks until the model was painted and I forgot to attach the headlights until after the side walls were connected, so I had to angle and force them in. The front left gear/side panel never fit  right, so it is a little bent and does not freely move like the other one. The rear gears are another story though, the instructions have you gluing a tiny piece between the side panned and the frame, but the issue is there is no good place for it to glue to, the is not even a pin that it slides into. I finally was able to attach it, but I needed my brother to help me hold the model.

Step Two – Painting the Base Coat:

I sprayed the entire model in a medium gray primer. I mixed a red-brown that closely matched the color on the instruction guide using a base of Vallejo “Flat Earth”, a drop or two of Vallejo “Black”, and some Testors “Gloss Red” since that was the only acrylic red I had. I thinned the mixture with some water and airbrushed it on the model as the base coat. For the tracks, I added some Vallejo “Black” to a Vallejo ” Natural Steel” and airbrushed them. The tracks took a while to dry, but came out fine. I painted more mud on the track guides using almost equal parts Vallejo “Flat Earth” and Vallejo “Black”. Next, I dry fitted the tracks to see how they fit in the guards and I found out that the right rear track guard had slumped down some, preventing the track from fitting. I took an X-Acto knife and was able to remove it and reattach it properly.

Step Three – Detailing and Weathering:

My main Detailing paints were Vallejo “Desert” for wood and Valejo “Natural Steel” for exposed metal & tools. Almost all of my detailing was done with a 00 brush. Although my medications can cause severe tremors, especially doing fine work while writing, I was able to paint the fine objects like tools without any issues and limited overlap. I painted a dab of Vallejo “Flat White” on the headlights. Before I weathered, I sprayed Model Master “Lusterless” rattlecan top coat all over the model. Once this set, it made weathering much easier and I was able to apply washes with almost no issues, unlike my first attempt with the ME-262. I used 2 different washes, a heavily thinned Vallejo “Black” and a moderately thinned version of my Mud mixture. I first applied the black wash to the top, then each side. When I applied the black wash to the turret, I ended up putting it on a bit too heavy. I applied the mud wash to the side panels, bottom, idlers, front, and rear. I let it dry somewhat before wiping it off. I decided to try weathering before I applied the decals mainly because I was trying a lot of new things and I did not want to ruin my decals.

Step Four – Adding Decals

Before applying decals, I applied Model Master “Semi-Gloss” acrylic top coat to the areas where the decals needed to be applied. Applying decals was fairly straight forward, but some of the smaller one ripped or fell apart before applying. I tried to cut the left side flag in half after putting it on, but it fell apart on one side. I had much better luck with cutting them before I applied them. One of the “Betty” decals and one of the number decals fell apart or ripped, one on the left side and the other up front. Before I finalized weathering, I did another coat of the Lusterless rattlecan top coat.

Step Five – Finalizing Weathering and Final Thoughts:

Using the same mud and black washes, I weathered the decals to make them match the rest of the vehicle and I applied a bit more mud weathering before attaching the tracks. I encountered no issues weathering on the decals, however there were a few parts related mishaps. All of the antennae finally fell off the top and I decided it was too much of an issue. The exhaust pipes were a pain and kept falling off. The tank tracks were actually very easy to glue together because the tank tracks could be glued using the solvent glue. This model was very easy to assemble, however there were several problematic parts, such as the antennae and the exhaust pipes. I was able to cover up some of my decals mishaps with weathering, particularly using a natural steel wash where one of my “Betty” decals ripped and fell apart. The overall quality of the model and instructions is very high, however I had several issues with the tiny parts, but that was probably due to the shaking in my hands and general clumsiness.

 

Revell 1/72 Me 262 A-1a – Paint Scheme: German Desert Spotted

I was a moron and I forgot to take any pictures of my model when building until I had painted the base coat and put on the masking tape; because of this, I will be dedicating this post to how I did the camouflage and what I learned along the way. I am using these pictures as reference for the pattern and I ended up making a combination of the two patterns. I know that the camo pattern is not historically accurate, I just wanted to do something a bit different. For reference, I use a Paasche Model H Single Action aurbrush.

Step Zero – Before I started documenting:

There were some problems with this model, particularly, the female fuselage was warped, but it corrected itself once it was glued on. One minor issue was that the holes for most of the antennae were never fully cleared, so I ran into issues putting them on and ended up scrapping them. I did not want to bother with trying to clear them with an Exacto and risk either hurting myself or the model. The cockpit was painted prior to attaching it to the plane, but I put it in the plane backwards. By the time I realized my mistake, the glue had set and it had to be carefully cut out with an Exacto and reattached. Thankfully, the wings were not on, in which case I would have been screwed.  I covered the cockpit with a piece of trimmed masking tape and painted on the light gray base coat, but I am not entirely pleased with it because I think it is a bit too dark.

Step One – Protecting areas with tape:

This step was probably the easiest, I taped up every area I did not want to get paint on with at least one strip of making tape. I would then place more tape on the overhanging sticky parts so there was no open adhesive and they were thick enough not to get caught on a pair of scissors. After that, I trimmed them down with a small pair of scissors.

Step Two – Painting the upper base coat and camo:

After deep cleaning the airbrush numerous times, we had previously made the fatal mistake of trying to spray Vallejo Model Color paints thinned with rubbing alcohol, all blockages were cleared and we used a Vallejo Model Color “Desert”(?) thinned with water for the tan secondary coat. For the pattern color, I used Vallejo Model Color “Flat Earth” with a drop of “Flat Black”, thinned with water. For each dot, I had the nozzle almost completely choked back on the needle and lightly tapped the trigger. I would clean the nozzle of dry tip every 2-3 dots.

Step Three – Weathering and Detailing:

At the point that I did this, I did not know about applying a protective layer before applying the weathering, so I applied it directly on the acrylic. I originally used an oil paint thinned with thinner, but that removed the acrylic on some test pieces that were attached to the sprue. I ended up carefully using highly water thinned “Flat Black” and a “Flat Earth” w/ a drop of “Natural Steel” acrylic paints to weather certain areas. I used Vallejo “Natural Steel” for the engines and the guns and I used “Flat Earth” for the cockpit seat. There was a casting/packaging issue with one of the engine nacelles that lead to it twisting and bending part of the plastic. Rather that trying to fill it or re-bend it to the right shape, I left it as is, filed away some paint, and weathered it to appear slightly damaged. I tried to also make a small hydraulic leak on the bottom by the right gear and one by the right horizontal stabilizer, but I am not fully pleased with it. I used a Vallejo “flat white” to dry brush the cockpit instruments to bring out colors.

Step Five – Finishing the camo and final thoughts:

I had a very hard time attaching the cockpit using “plastic weld” solvent “glue”, as can be seen at the edges of the cockpit. I have since learned that Testors makes model cement for clear parts that should fix most of my issues. I used some of the leftover base coat color and the camo color to touch up areas. I have also since learned several things about weathering, mainly to apply a protective coat, that you use opposing types of paints (you use oils or enamels if your base coat is acrylic), and that you need to be careful when you are removing it so you don’t rub off any paint. I will probably do decals later, but I am waiting to do those for when my hands are more steady and I am more confident in my ability. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or tips you could give me.

The X-Carve: 2-ish Months Later

NOTE: This article was meant to go live mid March, but medical issues delayed that until now.

It has been 2 months since we built the X-Carve. It has been a very eventful couple of months, We have both done a lot and learned a lot since then.

What we learned along the way:

  • It is always best to go stock before adding anything to it, even if what you are doing has tons of evidence behind it.
    • The “30 Minute Stiffening Mod”, despite the 75+ posts about it, lead to our rails being improperly spaced and caused our V-Wheels to jump while carving, which lead to issues with machine drift. Removing the mod fixed the jumping, for the most part. Now we just need to really clean the V-Wheels and Rails. We are also going to adjust how tight the wheels are to the rails to see if that affects anything.
  • The G-Shield seating is very delicate.
    • We have run into several issues where just bumping a cable or the power supply/enclosure will unmount the board. While this is easy to fix,  we did end up removing the strip of wood on the front of the shelf because we found that lifting the supply to put it back in after reseating the board can unseat it.
  • Your X-Carve will not cut perfectly flat to the stock wasteboard.
    • Because this is still a DIY kit, there has to be some room for error. We have never cut anything, especially something that is milling close to the bottom of the material, without having a secondary wasteboard under it. One solution for a “perfectly even cut” is to resurface the Inventables wasteboard or to create your own resurfaced secondary wasteboard.
  • Adjusting the potentiometers is inevitable.
    • Within the first 3 weeks, we found the need to adjust the potentiometers. We were not having a huge amount of issues, but they were still one thing we had not done and it helped somewhat.
  • Threadlock is important, especially on the pulley set screws.
    • The set screws on the X-Carriage pulley did not hold and got stripped. This lead to the stepper motor shaft slipping and causing machine drift. We ended up having to buy these longer set screws and Threadlock.
  • The Inventables Community is Indispensable!
    • The Inventables Community is a great resource for when you need help or inspiration. They have almost always been able to help me fix any issues that I have encountered with the machine. They are very helpful and knowledgeable

Some of what I have created:

  • Carpe Diem Wood Text Sign to hang over our doorway. This was made using Poplar and a dark stain.
  • LED Signs for to put on a desk or a shelf.

What I am currently making (as of March 12th, 2016):

  • I am testing ArtResin inlays for coasters I am making for my brother. I am using scrap test pieces that are in various stages of production.

What is Next (as of March 12th, 2016):

  • Adjust and clean the V-Wheels/Rails.
  • Finishing all of my brother’s coasters.
  • Trying my hand at prop making by replicating the Oblivion Iron Dagger.
  • Working on some picture engravings.
  • Finding more projects to do.

If you are interested in a wood sign or an LED sign, here is the Etsy store. Once I finish my brother’s coasters, I will add custom coasters as an product to the Etsy store. I am also going to work on picture engravings.

EDIT 6/3/16: The coasters are completed, here is the store page.

Minicraft 1/144 P-51D “Old Crow” – Paint Scheme: German Captured Aluminum & Yellow

This is my brother and I’s first model and our first time using an airbrush and we would greatly appreciate any feedback that you could give us.

Step Zero – Taking note of the instructions and the sprue:

This is the most important part just because how the instructions flow, how many parts there are, and how the parts fit together dictate how you will proceed. We noted that the landing gears were too tiny for us to reliably glue in and we also noted that we would have to paint the prop and the spinner on the sprue due to how fragile they were. None of the parts appeared warped, malformed, or had any other issues.

Step One – Painting the aluminum base coat:

We decided, with how the model goes together and how few and small the parts were, we were going to airbrush the base coat of aluminum onto the parts before we remove them from the sprue. For the aluminum we airbrushed “Aluminum Chrome Trim” enamel paint to achieve that freshly cleaned/polished sheen that you see on some P-51s. We used a “Flat Black” enamel for the propeller and a “Gloss Yellow” acrylic for the spinner, it was the only yellow on hand.

Step Two – Gluing it together:

This is probably the most time consuming part of the project just due to the amount of time it takes to ensure everything is secure and how finicky all the parts can be to put together. The single hardest part was the Horizontal Stabilizer, the “pin/slot” was as thick as a fingernail and they kept falling out.

Step Three – Painting the secondary color and the cockpit:

Although you cannot see it since it is too late, these pictures were taken right after painting, I covered everything I did not one to be yellow with a layer of painters tape. We airbrushed the exposed skin parts with a “Glossy Yellow” acrylic and mixed 1-2 cc “Flat Green” enamel with 1-2 drops of “Flat Black” enamel and we used a small detail brush for the interior. We did run into some issues where the paint pooled in some areas and the tape did not adhere fully.

Step Four – Finish the model and final thoughts

I had to touch up a few spots of paint and I notice where we went in too hard with the air-brush. Using sprue scraps, I created a little display stand. The paint scheme is partially based on this P-51 that was captured by the Germans, but we decided against the green cap and the marking. We did not do the marking because of how small the model is, smaller than my palm.

We were originally going to start working on a Revell 1/48 F-16, but we have observed that 1/144 was easy to do because there were not many parts, but painting, detailing, and such was very hard. From what we can tell, 1/48 is easy to paint because of how big the parts are, but there are a lot of them and it appears to be too complex for our current ability. Our next model will be a 1/72 Revell ME 262 A-1a.

Lightly Salted Crunchy Chickpeas – 8 Servings

  • 1 15.5 oz Can of Goya© Chickpeas/Garbanzo Beans (about 1 4/5 cups)
  • 1 1/2 Tablespoons Canola oil
  • 1/4 Teaspoon salt

Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Rub the chickpeas thoroughly dry with paper towels, their outer skins may come off and this is to be expected. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss the chickpeas with the oil. Put the coated chickpeas on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer and evenly sprinkle with the salt. Bake the chickpeas on the lower middle rack until they are golden brown and crunchy, this should take around 45 minutes or longer depending on your oven and moisture content of the chickpeas. Stir them every 15-20 minutes. Watch them after the 30 minute mark because they can burn easily. If you notice some are done before the rest, just remove them and let the others finish cooking. Once they are out of the oven, let them cool off then place them into an airtight container. You can use other brands of Garbanzo Beans, but Goya© has the lowest sodium I could find.

Total Calories  67
Calories From Fat
 25
Total Fat  2.8 g
Saturated Fat  0 g
Sodium 126 mg
Carbs  8.8 g
Protein  2.6 g
Potassium  *
Calcium  18 mg

*I have not included potassium because I was unable to find the amount of potassium in all of my ingredients.